Active crossovers have much lower power loss, if any at all. Passive crossover circuits (like those that come with speakers) can have a power loss of 0.5dB or more. Regardless of the configuration, Arachnid amplifiers pave the road of reliability and longevity you expect from Soundstream.Īctive 12dB/Octave Crossovers & Bass BoostĪctive crossovers built into an amplifier are the most efficient type of crossovers to use in car audio systems. Each stereophonic pair can power individual 4-ohm or 2-ohm speakers, while a bridged pair supersizes it’s strength to a 4-ohm load. ![]() 2-channel & 4-channel models take every advantage afforded by Class A/B linear amplifier technology, a compromise of performance and high fidelity characteristics. I guess the sweet spot for me is on the cheap side lol.Arachnid Amplifiers are the next step in amplifier fundamentals. Wow, thanks for the in depth explanation. It's pretty amazing that you can get a 2 kW amplifier for $200 (ignore that it's being marketed as a 4 kW amp). That being said, amplifier power is cheaper than ever (thanks to Class D topology). As with anything, there is a sweet spot for everyone. It's upto the wise buyer to decide on what would work for him/her. Higher end products generally are rated and built more conservatively, which drives up the price. These models bench in the ballpark of 3 kW with a sine wave. If you check birth sheets of these models, you'd see that they're probably more powerful than the "4000W Continuous / 8000W Max" Soundstream and Hifonics amps that we were talking about. Import duties (not so much of a factor here)įor example, these amps may only be rated at 2,400 - 2,500 watts but they're actually guaranteed to meet that specification: Price differences from the same retailer generally may be caused by:ģ. Slightly more if the car has a beefed-up electrical system, and much less with factory electricals. We can pretty much consider the Hifonics and Soundstream amps in our discussion as 2 kW amplifiers when tested with a sine wave and powered realistically, and maybe reach 3 kW with music. That should be sufficient for your described use case. There are people who claim to have dyno tested the AR1.8000D to deliver about 80% of rated output (3.2 kW) in real-world conditions (using a large alternator and extra batteries) from a dynamic measurement standpoint. Is it just the brand or what?Įither should do what you need. So what actually causes the huge price difference. I'm probably only going to run the thing on full blast like a couple minutes per week, so hopefully I'll be okay. ![]() Depending on the use, you may be able to push much more than this without damage (in cases of powerful transients without reaching mechanical limits) or damage it with far less power (if you constantly hit mechanical limits due to the wrong enclosure design or infrasonic filter setting). The subwoofer's power rating is generally just the maker's rated thermal capacity for the voice coil. An amplifier hitting its limits will clip its output waveform, causing nasty distortion. It's nearly impossible to buy an amp that's too powerful with today's Class D designs (because they are so efficient that even a huge amp won't waste a lot of power). ![]() Like cheap power supplies, cheap amplifiers often do not output rated capacity (by how much, it really depends on a lot of factors). Its aim is to replicate the input waveform in frequency, but produce a proportionally greater amplitude (this amplification factor is what they call "gain"). An amplifier is an AC power supply with an output that's modulated according to the input signal from your source. The more powerful the amplifier, the more headroom you have (it is your subwoofer's power supply). ![]() In other words, would buying an 8000 watt amp potentially cause any problems when powering a much smaller rms sub?Īs long as you are not maxing out the amplifier, then you are safe. So are subs exactly like PCs in the fact that having a power supply/amp with way more power than needed is what you want? So, I'm still kind of new to car audio, hence my presence in this forum, and I am a little confused about subwoofers power draw. I do still have a couple questions though.
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